There's really no way I can write anything short and succinct here. Tanja had come to be my best friend here in Iceland, my regular partner in crime for checking out live music, dancing, swilling beer, driving around the countryside and going walking. They say all good things must come to an end, which I think is full of shit, but so be it. Her job was finished, and her house and boyfriend were waiting for her to come back to them. On the bright side, I now have a friend in Germany.

And hell, if you're going to leave, at least it's an excuse for a party! Tanja made all sorts of baked goods for us all to eat, and we (Ute and I) invited a few people she'd never before, just to fill out the numbers a bit.

Coffee, wine, cake, icecream, cake, hákarl and brennivín (rotten shark and cardamon schnapps) tall tales, gossip, all repeating in a long and varied cycle, and eventually, a drive out to the airport to meet a plane.

Goða skemmtún